Category: Gardening

Giant Pumpkin Grown Using Compost Tea!

Truthfully, I don't know that compost tea is this man's secret, but I do know that using compost tea in your garden produces excellent results.

Here are the top 4 reasons to use compost tea:

1. Increase in plant growth

Using compost tea helps your trees and plants grow bigger. You will get greener leaves, bigger and brighter blooms, and bigger and more vegetables with compost tea.

2. Provide helpful organisms

Compost tea has live microbes which improve the soil and the immune system of plants. This gives you healthier, more stress0tolerant plants.

3. Help suppress diseases

When you use compost tea, you create a healthy balance between soil and plant, which means your plants can ward off pests, diseases, and fungus. Kind of what green tea does for humans!

4. Replace toxic chemicals

If you have toxins in your garden, compost tea will help remove them from the soil. It replaces chemical-based fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides. And it's a heck of a lot cheaper, so you save money, too.

To find out how to brew your own compost tea, please read Easy to Make Compost Tea.

I don't know about your garden, but mine is rather drab in the winter. I have gotten smarter about planting evergreen perennials, so I do have some green leaves out there right now, but what I really want is COLOR.

I found it. Walking around in the Magnolia section of Seattle the other day, I saw some brilliant purple berries that just POPPED in the otherwise drab landscape. According to our trusted Google, these belong to the Beautyberry family.

Here are three choices:

1. Bodinier's Beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri) is native to China and thrives in colder weather. This is most likely the variety I saw in Seattle, and it is beautiful. For more info, click here.

2. American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) - native to the southern U.S., the berries are edible but astringent. They do make lovely jellies, though. I think our weather in the Seattle area is a bit too cold for this variety. For more info on this shrub, click here.

3. Japanese Beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica) is native to Japan and grows 4' - 8'. You can see these at Bellevue Botanical Garden, or here.

Planting season is right around the corner, so plan now to bring color to your garden next winter. As for me, I'm going to pick up several Bodinier's Beautyberry plants and put them right outside the window where I can enjoy them next year.

Have you heard about compost tea? If you're a gardener, you have. It's better than compost, say the experts, bringing needed nutrition to your trees and plants AND discourages diseases.

This is all good, but if you research recipes for compost tea, they seem a bit complicated, requiring an aquarium filter and tubing . . . too much for me. But I've found a truly easy compost tea recipe that requires NO special equipment.

Easy-To-Make Compost Tea

Supplies:

• two buckets
• compost (enough to fill the bucket 1/3 full)
• water, unchlorinated
• cheesecloth, burlap, or an old shirt
• Optional: molasses, fish emulsion, powdered seaweed

Instructions:

1. Fill a bucket 1/3 full of quality compost.

2. Add water to the top of the bucket. Use unchlorinated water or well water. (To get the chlorine out of water, let it sit for 24 hours or put in a couple of tablets found with aquarium supplies.)

3. Let the mixture steep for 3-4 days. Stir it periodically to let in the oxygen.

4. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or other porous fabric (such as burlap, an old shirt, etc.) into the second bucket. Put the leftover solids into your garden or compost bin.

5. Dilute the remaining liquid with water so it looks like weak tea. Use a 10.1 ratio.

6. Use the tea immediately in your garden. You can apply it to the soil around trees and plants, and/or spray it onto the leaves.--in this case, add 1/8 tsp. vegetable oil or mild dish-washing liquid so it sticks to the leaves. You can add ingredients, such as molasses or fish emulsion, to create an even better tea.

That truly is simple! For more tips, see Home Composting Made Easy!, which is where I found this fabulous information.

Your trees and plants will thank you.

For a free quote on quality, professional tree work by ISA Certified Arborists, call Martin today at (206)714-9835 or fill out our on-line website inquiry form.

   Blooma Tree Experts are proud to count Ron Sims amongst their satisfied customers.

Mr. Sims has been the Deputy Secretary of the United States Department of Housing and Urban Development for President Obama, just recently resigning. Prior to this appointment, he served as King County Executive for twelve years.

Hired to prune several trees on Mr. Sims' property recently, the Blooma crew enjoyed chatting with this personable politician. Josiah Macauley spent some time chatting with Mr. Sims about his work  in Washington, DC and his long weekly commute. The entire crew said Mr. Sims is a personable, friendly man whom they enjoyed meeting.

If your Hemlock tree in or near the Seattle area is looking a little bit stressed, faded, and, well, sick, then it probably has fallen victim to the dreaded Hemlock Wooly Adelgid.

Look for little white blobs (like mini-Qtips) on the underside of the needles and branches. If you want a scientific explanation of this insect, go here: http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/woollyadelgid/index.aspx.

To Save Your Tree or Remove It?

If the infestation has gone untreated for awhile, your Hemlock may already be dead or dying. In that case, removal is your only option, and the sooner, the better (a dead tree is a real safety hazard in your landscape).

If your tree CAN be saved, the best method is to apply a special insecticide to the tree trunk or to the soil around the tree roots. This way the tree actually moves the chemicals up to the twigs and needles where the adelgids are feeding.

We recommend Bayer Advanced 12 Month Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed, which we have found at Lowe's Hardward Store (although it's sure to be available elsewhere). You do have to read the instructions carefully and re-apply every year.

When Is the Best Time to Treat My Hemlock?

According to the Pennsylvania Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources (who care about this problem deeply since the Hemlock tree is the Pennsylvania State Tree), you should treat your trees in spring, early summer, or fall "when adults break dormancy."

They do have some important tips of what NOT to do, too, so check out their website and get Woolly Adelgid-savvy. Let's save our Hemlocks!

When we see the front yards, we always notice the trees. Sometimes the trees are just right--they are shaped nicely, they're healthy, and they're the right size for the house and yard. In this case, the tree is an asset.

Sometimes, though, the trees really detract from the house, really bringing down the curb appeal. Trees that are unhealthy, or badly pruned, or too big or too small, or just plain ugly are not an asset to a home. They are an eyesore.

I offer you my first photos of Seattle area houses. Are the trees an asset? Or are they an eyesore?

The following photos were taken in the same Mukilteo cul-de-sac.

House #1

Beautifully landscaped yard with a lovely variety of trees and bushes . . . except for . . .

this cherry tree by the front door. What an unattractive pruning job!

House #2

This house is quite beautiful and large. But what is the centerpiece of the yard?

What is that? An umbrella tree? I don't know, but it's far too small for the house. Plus it in unnatural, misshapen, and unhealthy. Time to remove this sad little tree and re-plant.

House #3

What do you think of these three trees? Asset? or Eyesore?

We get out, we walk around, and sometimes we are saddened by what we see. Here is a photo of a prime example of poor pruning. Let me explain.

As you can see, this tree is still alive--or at least part of it is. The pink blooms are lovely, but we can't appreciate their beauty because of the ugly stumps. We're not sure what the goal was with this pruning job, but each of those cuts left a stump. None of those stumps will callus over and heal, thus keeping the tree stressed and inviting fungi and pests.

In addition, the canopy has been obliterated, leaving a lopsided tree. This is very unattractive. The amount of the canopy removed is too much for the tree to bear, and it will now descend into its death spiral.

In this case, the best suggestion is to remove the tree entirely and plant a new one. This tree diminishes the value of the house and the aesthetics of the street. Put the tree out of its misery and begin again. Next time, though, call in a professional to prune your tree!

One of our blog readers asked us, "I have a crepe myrtle tree that has limbs that are dead, can my tree be saved?"

Without examing the tree in question, there are some signs you can look for in your own trees and steps you can take.

First of all, dead limbs should be removed, and removed properly. Look at our blog post on how to prune to see how (or check out the website www.TreesAreGood.com).

Second, look for signs of your tree's overall health. 

1. Look at the base of the tree and the ground around it. Are there signs of upheaval? Has the ground been disturbed lately or soil added on? Is there grass that is fighting for the same nutrients? Keep the soil undisturbed around established trees, being sure to keep the root flare intact. The only acceptable addition is mulch, and that must be kept 2 - 3 inches away from the root flare.
2. Look at the trunk. Is there splitting? Are there signs of damage (such as something hitting it)? Is there a lot of sap running down? These are more serious signs of damage that could cause the death of a tree. If a tree can't heal itself, it will die. In that case, it's best to remove the tree and plant a new one.
3. Look at the canopy. Is there a lot of deadwood? Are there signs of a fungus or insect infestation? Are the leaves healthy or are they showing signs of stress? Depending on what you see, you could either treat the problem (such as an insect infestation) or acknowledge that your tree is in its death spiral.

Finally, when in doubt, consult a professional. In that case, you want to call in an ISA certified arborist because he or she has the training and knowledge to properly assess your tree (don't fall for the "I'm a tree surgeon" line or "I'm an arborist" sales line--those mean nothing). Someone with a degree in horticulture might also be able to offer professional advice, although it's surprising how little some horticulturists know about trees specifically. They are often experts in shrubs, flowers, and ground cover, but unschooled in trees.

We hope this information helps!

So you've got a tree stump in your yard. Grind it? Or leave it? Here are three reasons to get it gone:

#1. Aesthetics!                  Fun but tacky.

Tree stumps are, at best, unattractive. At worst, they detract from your yard and property value. We've all seen people try to turn them into stands, placing a bird bath basin on top or perhaps a sculpture, but that really doesn't disguise the fact that it's a tree stump. It's much more beautiful to remove the stump and replace it with a beautiful shrub, tree, or flowers.

#2 Tree Shoots!

Some trees just keep sending up shoots, even after the tree itself has been removed. These shoots or suckers grow out of the stump, ending in an unsightly mess. If you didn't want the tree there in the first place, you aren't going to like scrawny suckers.

#3. Destructive Bugs!                       Carpenter Ants

It's just a short walk from a stump to your foundation. Stumps attract carpenter ants and termites. These hungry insects can move quickly to your house and move in. Most carpenters we know always remove stumps in their yards--they've seen the damage of these insects firsthand. In addition, wasps and bees like stumps. These insects will not destroy your house, of course, but you may not want to invite them into your yard!

Stump grinding is the answer to these problems. A stump grinder wielded by a professional can reduce your ugly stump into a nice pile of mulch, perfect for your garden. If there are large roots that have disrupted your lawn or raised the sidewalk, those can be "chased down" with a stump grinder, too. We've yet to run into a customer unhappy with their stump gone!

Call Blooma Tree Experts LLC for a price on stump grinding: (206) 714-9835

Many of our customers find themselves scratching their heads to figure out the best tree to plant in their yard. Often, they have a huge Douglas Fir or Cedar that must be removed because it has outgrown its urban setting, and they want to replace the too-large tree with one that is the right size for their yard.

Our recommendation? A Japanese Maple!

The Japanese Maples grow beautifully in the Seattle area, and there is sure to be one (or more!) that fits your garden and color scheme. Take a look at just a few of the many varieties available to us:

The 'Crimson Queen' laceleaf maple is very popular in the Seattle area. This is a slow-growing cultivar that, in 30 to 50 years, may reach 6'. Most we see around here are around 4' tall. This cultivar holds its color well into the hot weather, with burgundy most of the year and crimson in the fall. There are other cultivars that look similar but grow faster, such as the 'Tamukeyama' and 'Garnet.'

This cultivar grows to about 5' to 8' and is excellent for container growing. Leaves tend to hang down, giving a cascadiing look. Red, yellow, and gold in the fall, this is a sun-tolerant plant.

The Emperor grows to about 25' tall, at a rate of one foot per year. The stem is nearly black, with a translucent red leaf that is small and delicate, giving the tree an open, airy appearance. This beauty can tolerate hot sun and wind without wilting.

The Katsura has year-round color and good vigor. There are two different varieties: one is a dwarf shrub that grows to 5; - 6', and the other is a full-grown tree or about 25'. New growth is orange in the spring, then it becomes a golden yellow, then a rich green with lighter tones in summer, and finally a fine yellow with orange tones in the fall.

This is known as the weeping willow of Japanese maples. This tree may reach 15' - 25' in many years, and the crown may be nearly as wide. In summer, it is bright green, and in the fall it is a beautiful gold and crimson mix. The photo shows a young example; a mature tree's branches "weep" to form a curtain around the tree.

Another group of cultivars offer variegated leaves. This beni shishihenge is a smallish shrub that grows to 6' - 12'. It's not as vigorous as some others, but it is a real eyecatcher. This tree is still fairly rare, and it has various spellings. Some other, more common variegated cultivars are readily available at our local nurseries.

The Seiryu is a vigorous, vase-shaped, often multi-trunked, green laceleaf. It's a relatively fast grower, and it will reach 10' to 15' in ten years. The new growth is a light, bright, gold-green; the medium-green summer foliage is lacy and delicate; and the red and gold fall color is dramatic.

All Japanese maple photos and information come from the following website:  www.worldplants.com/mapleintro.htm